How to go to Court

The Extraordinary Chambers of the Courts of Cambodia (also known as the ECCC or the Khmer Rouge Tribunal) is the legislative answer to a major problem facing many post-conflict situations; "what should we do with the bad guys?" The ECCC follows behind examples such as the International Criminal Court in The Hague, the Rwanda Tribunal, or former Yugoslavia trials. It's an honorable intention. One could scarcely contest; prosecuting those responsible for genocide, crimes against humanity, war crimes, destruction of historical/cultural property, or grave breeches of the 1949 Geneva Conventions. Conceptually, we all believe in the ECCC.

After years of complicated negotiations, the ECCC was operational in 2007. Cambodia disproved of the idea of using an international court system so together with the UN, a “hybrid court” was agreed upon consisting of international and Khmer judges which would apply both international humanitarian law and Khmer law. The intention was to focus on “key leaders” committing crimes from 1975 through 1979. However, thus far there has only been one case. Three more trials are underway. After these three, the court will be disbanded, a direct order form the Cambodian government. So $149.9 million USD, one conviction, and possibly three more, is it pointless?

The ECCC was born into a dysfunctional family. It’s largest hindrance is that so many individuals with Khmer Rouge connections are still in the Cambodian political system. Uprooting information on any one KR leader could potentially uproot the entire system. It’s a dangerous game for the ruling party and the prime minister who have been in power since 1990, and have questionable connections prior to that year.

There are other issues with the ECCC. Allegations exist that only individuals connected with the ruling political party are employed there. The judges both international and Khmer are frequently cycled out, or denied appointments. Many international members of the court have resigned, most of whom are to gracious to share their grievances with the public. Those who have, are angry. Public support has always been incredibly low for the ECCC. Most people appear unaware it’s even happening, or incredibly skeptical if they do know anything. The court system in Cambodia is fundamentally flawed. Even this internationally sanctioned court half filled with international judges isn’t enough to persuade the public of its value. If all of this wasn’t enough, while it’s rarely expressed openly, people would rather sweep this nasty KR business under the rug and move on. It’s too much to look at that disaster in the face.

I didn’t realize any of this was happening until I went to a part of the trial on Tuesday. It’s a surreal experience, watching the proceedings behind glass with real-life translation over your headset. It all seems so professional, so 21^st century, exactly the way the world should be, where genocide is a serious offence that has serious consequences. But then you do your research, and you hear the rumors, and you realize everyone’s hands on all sides are tied by either formal legal proceedings or by shadows of the KR. It’s all so sad. The Khmer Rouge in many ways seems to live on. 

How to Move Forward

Moving into a new and hopefully better year, I've been thinking about how to move forward. There are certain points in life where one notes a dramatic move forward. These are graduations, marriages, children, location changes, and even shifts at one's job. Some of these are significant points and as society we place great emphasis on these moments, as well we should. They signal celebration, moving forward, a welcome change in the status quo. We honor this times, because these changes note that the person is taking a risk and investing in something new and exciting.


Yet honestly, I'm not graduating, or moving locations, or getting married or changing much about my job, and I'm so thankful  for no impending children. I'm still here, just here. It's hard as a nomad to stand still, even when you're only standing still for three years. Yet even though my life looks quite uninteresting and stationary, I wish there was some way to celebrate that I am moving forward. I'm facing my own petty fears. I am trying new research methodology. I am visiting new places and collecting new pictures of new adventures. I'm challenging my own ignorance and prejudice. I am moving forward. This is how any one of us nomads can move forward. There is no one date, or output or even outcome from these small forward movement. Still, I'm just a little excited for these small actions and little changes because it offers the opportunity to grow and reach out. And thank God no major upheaval will happen soon. I'm completely incapable of handling that.

How to Visit Timor Leste

Outside Dili

How many people know where East Timor or Timor Leste is located? I didn’t think so. Fear not, nine months ago, I didn’t either. I learn about places by moving to them…or when my family moves to them. Timor Leste was no exception. However, fortunate for me, this specific move on my family’s part was located conveniently enough to warrant a Christmas visit.

How does one get to Timor Leste? Few options exist…Darwin, Bali or Singapore. I choose Singapore, and after an overnight in the cleanest city in Asia, I found myself on a three hour flight to Dili, Timor Leste. That's how you get to Timor. But how do you visit?

There are several interesting features about Timor Leste that I will remember from my trip as either memorable or essential to my understanding of Timor:

A Little Snorkeling...

Indonesia: Timor Leste was a Portuguese colony. When the Portuguese left in 1974, Indonesia moved in, ushering in war and conflict which only ended in 2002. As a result, the UN is still in Timor, and Timor is still recovering.

Church: 98% of the one million population self-identify as Catholic; introduced by the Portuguese and solidified as representative of the resistance movement during Indonesian occupation.

Beaches and Mountains: Timor’s beautiful beaches provide spectacular views of the ocean and vis versa. This fits well with the next point.

Inside one of the nativities...

Tour de Timor: What better way to rehabilitate a post-conflict nation’s image then host a competitive bike race? 2011 was the third annual Tour de Timor, and it’s gathering quite a following in the region.

There are several events worth repeating should you ever venture to this beautiful island.

A Portuguese Christmas Eve: This was arguably one of the most memorable things about Timor! My family has some awesome Portuguese friends and they invited us over for a traditional “Christmas Day” (I call it Christmas Eve). I can now say cod fish and opening presents after midnight is my idea of an awesome “Christmas Day.”

Going out for a dive.

Snorkeling: Timor has plenty to offer in this area and it's not that difficult breathing through this pipe. It's quite pleasant compared with the next point (in terms of difficulty).

Diving: Timor might not be the most developed nation, but the underwater life continued regardless of Indonesian occupation. I’ve never been diving before, but whatever my 10 years old brother can do, I can do…even if my panic attack was more apparent than his. Once you overcome your nerves, it’s an experience like no other.

Kayaking!

Kayaks: I’m learning to love kayaks (in general). So kayaking on the calm of a small bay under a giant statue of Jesus known as “Cristo Ray” was quite memorable!

Mountains: Driving on the switchbacks on tiny one-lane (but really two lane!) roads through the mountains is really a once in a lifetime experience! We did not die and the views were amazing.

Nativities: In celebration of Christmas, every neighborhood had their own little version of the Holy Family, each set in a little open-air “shed” and complete with lights, tinsel, and garland. Some had wise men, or camels, or shepherds, or goats…and often Santa.

Arguably, the best part about Timor and my Christmas was the opportunity to visit family. But then, not everyone has family that lives in remote Pacific islands!