Thursday, October 9, 2008

How I Survived my First Ramadan

When I moved to Pakistan, I was excited by the prospect of being in an Islamic nation during Ramadan. I saw it something like celebrating Christmas in London or New Years Eve in NYC, the real thing in the real place. That was an accurate view in the end but Ramadan isn't quite what I expected it to be.

Ramadan is a major holiday and theological requirement in Islam. Ramadan follows the lunar month and all adherents fast from food, beverages, and smoking from sunup to sundown for that period. Exceptions are allowed for nursing mothers, the very elderly, infants and small children, and those who are sick or have eating disorders.

The month of Ramadan is very interesting because Islamabad simply became unusually quiet. People are allowed to leave work at 4pm instead of 6pm since there’s no lunch break and it’s difficult to concentrate without breakfast and lunch. Restaurants didn't open until after sundown. It’s impossible to find anything for lunch; no ice cream vendors, no guys selling frites on the side-streets, no coffee shops, no water sellers. Nonetheless, after sundown is very festive and people stay up till 3/4am. Pizza Hut offers a special all-you-can-eat buffet from midnight to sunup, which is exactly my idea of a good time to eat…but no one else in my family ever agreed with me on that point. During Ramadan, you're not allowed to eat on the streets or be seen eating or drinking during daylight hours. As a foreigner, no one expects you to fast, but keep it a secret that you're eating.

Ramadan ends with the three day holiday of Eid. Eid is somewhat like Christmas, there are lights on the shops, everyone buys a new outfit, children are given gifts and the three days are spent visiting family and friends. Eid was officially Wednesday-Friday but people took Monday and Tuesday off too so the holiday was well celebrated.

One of my favorite parts about Ramadan was the advertising. Food products began catering towards the evening partying, and posters and advertising was to die for. All in all, a unique experience, everyone has to do it once.

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