How to go to Court

The Extraordinary Chambers of the Courts of Cambodia (also known as the ECCC or the Khmer Rouge Tribunal) is the legislative answer to a major problem facing many post-conflict situations; "what should we do with the bad guys?" The ECCC follows behind examples such as the International Criminal Court in The Hague, the Rwanda Tribunal, or former Yugoslavia trials. It's an honorable intention. One could scarcely contest; prosecuting those responsible for genocide, crimes against humanity, war crimes, destruction of historical/cultural property, or grave breeches of the 1949 Geneva Conventions. Conceptually, we all believe in the ECCC.

After years of complicated negotiations, the ECCC was operational in 2007. Cambodia disproved of the idea of using an international court system so together with the UN, a “hybrid court” was agreed upon consisting of international and Khmer judges which would apply both international humanitarian law and Khmer law. The intention was to focus on “key leaders” committing crimes from 1975 through 1979. However, thus far there has only been one case. Three more trials are underway. After these three, the court will be disbanded, a direct order form the Cambodian government. So $149.9 million USD, one conviction, and possibly three more, is it pointless?

The ECCC was born into a dysfunctional family. It’s largest hindrance is that so many individuals with Khmer Rouge connections are still in the Cambodian political system. Uprooting information on any one KR leader could potentially uproot the entire system. It’s a dangerous game for the ruling party and the prime minister who have been in power since 1990, and have questionable connections prior to that year.

There are other issues with the ECCC. Allegations exist that only individuals connected with the ruling political party are employed there. The judges both international and Khmer are frequently cycled out, or denied appointments. Many international members of the court have resigned, most of whom are to gracious to share their grievances with the public. Those who have, are angry. Public support has always been incredibly low for the ECCC. Most people appear unaware it’s even happening, or incredibly skeptical if they do know anything. The court system in Cambodia is fundamentally flawed. Even this internationally sanctioned court half filled with international judges isn’t enough to persuade the public of its value. If all of this wasn’t enough, while it’s rarely expressed openly, people would rather sweep this nasty KR business under the rug and move on. It’s too much to look at that disaster in the face.

I didn’t realize any of this was happening until I went to a part of the trial on Tuesday. It’s a surreal experience, watching the proceedings behind glass with real-life translation over your headset. It all seems so professional, so 21^st century, exactly the way the world should be, where genocide is a serious offence that has serious consequences. But then you do your research, and you hear the rumors, and you realize everyone’s hands on all sides are tied by either formal legal proceedings or by shadows of the KR. It’s all so sad. The Khmer Rouge in many ways seems to live on. 

How to Move Forward

Moving into a new and hopefully better year, I've been thinking about how to move forward. There are certain points in life where one notes a dramatic move forward. These are graduations, marriages, children, location changes, and even shifts at one's job. Some of these are significant points and as society we place great emphasis on these moments, as well we should. They signal celebration, moving forward, a welcome change in the status quo. We honor this times, because these changes note that the person is taking a risk and investing in something new and exciting.


Yet honestly, I'm not graduating, or moving locations, or getting married or changing much about my job, and I'm so thankful  for no impending children. I'm still here, just here. It's hard as a nomad to stand still, even when you're only standing still for three years. Yet even though my life looks quite uninteresting and stationary, I wish there was some way to celebrate that I am moving forward. I'm facing my own petty fears. I am trying new research methodology. I am visiting new places and collecting new pictures of new adventures. I'm challenging my own ignorance and prejudice. I am moving forward. This is how any one of us nomads can move forward. There is no one date, or output or even outcome from these small forward movement. Still, I'm just a little excited for these small actions and little changes because it offers the opportunity to grow and reach out. And thank God no major upheaval will happen soon. I'm completely incapable of handling that.

How to Visit Timor Leste

Outside Dili

How many people know where East Timor or Timor Leste is located? I didn’t think so. Fear not, nine months ago, I didn’t either. I learn about places by moving to them…or when my family moves to them. Timor Leste was no exception. However, fortunate for me, this specific move on my family’s part was located conveniently enough to warrant a Christmas visit.

How does one get to Timor Leste? Few options exist…Darwin, Bali or Singapore. I choose Singapore, and after an overnight in the cleanest city in Asia, I found myself on a three hour flight to Dili, Timor Leste. That's how you get to Timor. But how do you visit?

There are several interesting features about Timor Leste that I will remember from my trip as either memorable or essential to my understanding of Timor:

A Little Snorkeling...

Indonesia: Timor Leste was a Portuguese colony. When the Portuguese left in 1974, Indonesia moved in, ushering in war and conflict which only ended in 2002. As a result, the UN is still in Timor, and Timor is still recovering.

Church: 98% of the one million population self-identify as Catholic; introduced by the Portuguese and solidified as representative of the resistance movement during Indonesian occupation.

Beaches and Mountains: Timor’s beautiful beaches provide spectacular views of the ocean and vis versa. This fits well with the next point.

Inside one of the nativities...

Tour de Timor: What better way to rehabilitate a post-conflict nation’s image then host a competitive bike race? 2011 was the third annual Tour de Timor, and it’s gathering quite a following in the region.

There are several events worth repeating should you ever venture to this beautiful island.

A Portuguese Christmas Eve: This was arguably one of the most memorable things about Timor! My family has some awesome Portuguese friends and they invited us over for a traditional “Christmas Day” (I call it Christmas Eve). I can now say cod fish and opening presents after midnight is my idea of an awesome “Christmas Day.”

Going out for a dive.

Snorkeling: Timor has plenty to offer in this area and it's not that difficult breathing through this pipe. It's quite pleasant compared with the next point (in terms of difficulty).

Diving: Timor might not be the most developed nation, but the underwater life continued regardless of Indonesian occupation. I’ve never been diving before, but whatever my 10 years old brother can do, I can do…even if my panic attack was more apparent than his. Once you overcome your nerves, it’s an experience like no other.

Kayaking!

Kayaks: I’m learning to love kayaks (in general). So kayaking on the calm of a small bay under a giant statue of Jesus known as “Cristo Ray” was quite memorable!

Mountains: Driving on the switchbacks on tiny one-lane (but really two lane!) roads through the mountains is really a once in a lifetime experience! We did not die and the views were amazing.

Nativities: In celebration of Christmas, every neighborhood had their own little version of the Holy Family, each set in a little open-air “shed” and complete with lights, tinsel, and garland. Some had wise men, or camels, or shepherds, or goats…and often Santa.

Arguably, the best part about Timor and my Christmas was the opportunity to visit family. But then, not everyone has family that lives in remote Pacific islands!

How New Year Divides Us: Third Edition

Singapore's finest.

There are many new articles and editorials documenting how 2011 was so crappy, mostly on account of the global economy (and the Kardashians). For me, this was entirely true. After the amazingness of 2010, 2011 was born into failure. The first half of the year was rough. I finally verbalized my worst fear in late June; Cambodia was a mistake. It wasn’t in July that things began to turn, when I learned the swing of work, finally realize what I was here to accomplish, and made a solid group of friends. So not surprisingly, the majority of this list happened later 2011. 

Luang Prabang Laos: I took a night train to Laos! I took an overnight bus in Laos! I ate sticky rice and curry in Laos! This tiny landlocked country stole my heart with its mountains, its food and its darling obsession for outlawing motos. But walking around the former mountainous country’s former capital city of Luang Prabang, by the beautiful old temples and the Mekong was a memory to cherish.

A little of Mondlekiri...

East Timor: Is it possible to climb up a statue of Jesus, go driving, snorkeling, kayaking, dance the poka poka, visit Marynoll sisters in a far off mountainous “village,” and eat cod-fish with the Portuguese on Christmas Eve…and within one week? It most certainly is! My family live on this pleasant little island, and they are doing well.

Mondlekiri: Perhaps my favorite day in Cambodia thus far happened in Mondlekiri. Renting a moto and driving through the mountains; pine trees, Thai food and one unique eco lodge, waterfalls, calm and quiet, and sunshine mixed with rain. Mondlekiri was one favorite piece of a fabulous month-long visit from my very favorite person.

The EED Grant: I’ve never written a grant or proposal in my entire life (my college failed me in that respect). So imagine my surprise when the first grant I had ever written for $40,000 USD for my one partner was accepted by German funder EED? I earned my wings as a partner adviser. 

Yes I am a safe driver.

The Day they “Got It”: I can clearly remember the day when at my partner, we brought in an outside consultant to discuss our M&E framework (what I had been putting together for the past several months with two national staff). He loved it, and a light bulb went on for the national staff. I knew in that moment that they got it. It was validating of our work together, and appeased doubts that they would never understand the purpose of documenting one’s work. Moments like these reward us service workers who often question if we're doing anything right.

The Temples of Angkor (credit to Jon)

Rain driving: During the rainy season, sporadic bursts of rain are inevitable. It happens often when you’re driving. There is something completely joyful about splashing through giant puddles with rain coming down so hard you can hardly breathe. (Provided you have no valuables on you.)

Singapore Orchid Garden: Singapore’s Orchid Garden was perfect. Cambodia doesn’t afford many green spaces, so sitting down next to a bed of orchids was almost too much for me to handle. It was almost a restoring of a soul; that natural untainted beauty does exist, even in small little places, and in small flowers. It was also one of the cheaper things to do in the over-developed Singapore.

Angkor Wat: I’ve been to Angkor Wat twice now. I don’t love Angkor Wat because it’s so freaking hot out there and you can’t see the temples without becoming completely exhausted! However, it’s a pretty spectacular sight to see. Everyone should see it once in their life (I think Jackie Kennedy said that).

Laos Beckons

Learning to Drive: I’ve written so much about driving moto in Phnom Penh and the countryside. It’s because I just love it that much! The day when I leave my beloved moto (affectionately known as “lake boo-in” or “Number Four”), I might actually cry.

The Team: The vast majority of the MCC Cambodia team arrived within Cambodia in a 10 month time-frame. As a result, our three-year terms will all overlap a good two years. This solid group of couples, mostly non-Mennonites who have all extended their homes, their fridges, their humor and stories, their vacations, their friendships, and (in one case) their firstborn red-head child to me. I will prize these friendships for life. (This also includes the one-year “interns” or “saltines” who I have been happy to count among my friends.)

A little Timor with the little siblings 

I am so excited for 2012; challenge filled certainly but one hopefully filled with joy. I look forward to:

·         New friendships and deepening present friendships

·         Visiting new places and countries

·         Seeing my family and dear ones again

·         More late night skype conversations

·         Completing GREs

·         Possibly a half-marathon...

·         Above all else, finally getting my partner on board with the M&E indicators I wrote last September. (No one ever said capacity building or even communication was easy.)

How Christmas arrived in Phnom Penh

So how does my dearest Phnom Penh express it's festive side this Christmas time.

Well, first of all, Christmas is not a national holiday. So kids will be in school, businesses will be open, and your 24-hour mart (even though realistically it's 7 to 9 joint), will be open.

However, Christmas fever seems to have bitten the town (along with Dengue, another story).

These are the things I have noticed (yet neglected to photograph):

• Imported Western candy at Lucky supermarket (including candy canes and personal favorite, holiday Hershey Kisses)
• There have been two Christmas markets, where social enterprises are selling their good to the mostly expat community
• Multiple blow-up Santas in front of mini-market
• One favorite coffee shop (Brown) has a peppermint latte
• Multiple sales at various establishments (including clothing shops and craft stores)

Finally, I don't know if this coincides with Christmas, but there are twinkle lights all along Noradom Avenue (crooked but still so pretty!), and green, blue, and white twinkle lights around Independence Monument. Independence will also have lights on the little shrubs around it (not unlike little Christmas trees) and the fountains will be playing with coordinated changing color lights. Noradom Ave and Independence Monument are often decorated for national holidays and festivals. One of my favorite things to do in Phnom Penh for holidays is to loop the Independence round-about several times, drive up Noradom, circle Wat Phnom at the top (which will also have special spot lights), drive back down Noradom, loop Independence once again, and drive home quite happily singing songs to myself. For just a little while, everything feels just a little prettier.

Perhaps it's because I will see my family over the holidays, but I am feeling the holidays. I still sweat everyday, run the AC at the office everyday and on swimming on Saturday. Yet I am steadfast in my belief that Christmas may not be hijacked by cold weather people when demographically, more people live in climates similar to Cambodia.

Incidentally, Phnom Penh has also taken to recently posting banners declaring itself "the Charming City." I take great offensive to the use of the word charming in this situation. Unless however we mean trash in the gutter, no zoning, monster Chinese-styled buildings in tiny lots, stupid one way streets, zero sidewalks, very few trees, and chronically aggressive motodup and tuk tuks. Phnom Penh is near and dear to my heart, clearly. However, charming in this context has been hijacks. In fact, I have declared this city..."The Crazy Town."

How to Summarize Work in 2011

This week at my organization, we completed the task/chore known as "review and planning session." We talk strategy and the all important budget. We talk about what we've done over the past year, the tasks we've completed, and what we'd like to focus on over the next year. As part of this, we each brought a few paragraphs on lessons learned over 2011. I drank a lot of coffee before I wrote mine. I like mine! The length is ideal for a short blog post. Therefore...here are a few lessons learned over 2011.

An Essay on Words
For Review and Planning December 2011

The word which defines 2011 is "confusion." Perhaps "inadequacy" is a close second. I officially started work as a partner adviser on 2 January 2011. Since then, I've experienced a barrage of challenges and confusion in both partner and MCC work; deciphering roles, expectations, limitations and the constant changing of roles, expectations and limitations. We rush to meet deadlines to find they are artificial dates. We painfully debate which fork in the road to take, when they both arrive at the same destination. We struggle to communicate simple tasks. We battled irrelevance. Such is life. Such is life in Cambodia. Such is life when you embrace flexibility, and wait attentively for life to teach you. Last December, I choose "patience" as the virtue to define this year personally. I don't know if I've learned much about patience but I've had the opportunity to practice it.

As I pass 14 months in Cambodia, observations on country-specific challenges to peacebuilding revealed a new word. So much of what occurs here is based on this word, "fear." I have seen the reality of being caught in the paralyzing grip of deep cultural fears. I have faced the reality of becoming fearful, and seen how we can imprison ourselves to bondage of our own making, in paranoia both real and perceived. I've examined fears affecting my work in Cambodia. I fear inadequacy, that I’ll fail to consider cultural factors, that I’ll fail to listen, that I’ll fail to lead by example... And as such, fear that this word will define me, has become an incentive to consider motivations, and how to live a fear-free life.

I've not choose a word for this coming year. The overall word I wish I define my life is "joy." I like to think I will see more in the coming year now that my feet are established and relationships are developed. Our colleague someone once mentioned to me that a good educator will set their teaching curriculum just outside their own knowledge base, to inspire themselves to learn outside what they already know. I find myself resonating with this idea. I've considered how this require patience, freedom from fear, a confrontation with inadequacy, a commitment to joy. I don't know how to sum that up in a word, but if I could, that would be the word for 2012.

How to Attend a Khmer Wedding

In the words of a colleague, "how come you have been here so long and haven't been to a wedding?" My sentiments exactly. As of Saturday, this was finally crossed off the bucket list.

It's almost a struggle to write about this experience. It was short and anti-climatic and I felt out of place for most of it. However, because weddings are universally interesting, I share pieces of this experience.

In the morning is a ceremony. I did not go the ceremony. It was at 7am, and after the invitation debacle, I wasn't going to push it (I was promised an invitation but didn't get one, cross-cultural confusion). The ceremony is fairly standard. The groom with his family and friends parade up to the bride's house two-by-two with plates of fruit as an offering/dowry. They are invited in and the family will quiz the groom and the bride to be sure it's a good match (it's an amicable formality)...and they are pronounced married. 

In the evening is the party. Everyone is invited. Absolutely everyone. Guests bring the standard $20 in the envelop that your invitation came in. This is supposedly to cover the costs the the party, food, band, venue, etc. Someone takes the money and writes down exactly who it's from and how much they gave. This is very important. When someone from your family gets married, it must be appropriately returned. Therefore, if I gave $40, this couple would be morally bound to give $40 at my wedding. This is so very important, and if you weren't going to return (or raise it), you might as well not come to my wedding (but if you didn't come, you would lose face). Alas, no one said social rules were easy. 

Women are expected to dress up like it's the the red carpet at the Oscars; hair, hair extensions, stage-make up, nail extensions, sparking heels, and vibrant colors. Maybe half the women wear the traditional skirt and shirt, which is very sparkly. The other half wear more Western "prom" dresses. Men can wear anything they want, preferably not not polos, but I did see a few polos. In keeping with half the expectations set forth, I went around the block to get my hair and nails done...but I did wear a very Western dress. I don't anticipate dressing up any more then this, for the rest of my life.

This wedding was at a restaurant, so after shaking the couple's hand at the entrance, I went up to the hall. Each table seated 10 people and the drinks were already on the table (pepsi, tonic water, Angkor beer). When a table was full, food would come. When the food was finished (this food did exceed my expectations, in all honesty), you could mingle or they could leave. The single most notable feature of all Khmer weddings is the alcohol. This is how it is. This wedding was absolutely no exception. It's a party. The beer will flow without ceasing, without judgement, and without moderation. 

At the end of the day, sitting in a giant hall alone with 375 people who don't speak much English and are greatly enjoying the local beer and whiskey mixed with tonic water and ice chunks....isn't really my thing. Maybe if I hadn't gone alone (I think I was allowed a plus one, but another point of confusion). Maybe if I had been more committed to the whiskey mixed with tonic water and ice chunks. Maybe...if I was Khmer. After about three hours and feeling very white and out of place, I left early. I did miss the dancing which I regret (moving slowly around a potted plant while your fingers flex in a circular motion...done it before). Alas, but I also had an invite to Thanksgiving dinner after-party so that was the next stop in this eventful evening. 

At least I kicked two things off the bucket list that night. 1) Attending a wedding. 2) Riding side-saddle on a moto taxi. For this reason, the evening was successful.