Thursday, October 27, 2011

How to Enjoy Mondelkiri

Can you still blog about a trip which occurred nearly five months ago? I think so. Particularly if it was a good trip. This was a very good trip. I've been delaying visits to the beach given the overall seedy reputation of many beaches. I also don’t particularly like sand. It’s grainy. Thus, looking into research of other options when a very special visitor came through (the most important visitor), I wanted to do something different. I wanted to confirm this rumor that there are really pine trees in Cambodia.
"The Tree Ocean"

Cambodia for the record is as flat as Kansas. (For the record, I’ve never been to Kansas but I know people who have, and the attest to this fact). Anything remotely resembling a bump on the landscape is called a “mountain” and typically has a wat on top. However, if you travel east towards Vietnam approximately eight hours, there are real hills. These hills mildly resemble what I remember from a life long ago in Kenya. Mondlekiri Province is famous for,
a)    Waterfalls
b)    Avocados
c)    Coffee bushes
d)    Illegal logging

Have a little hilly countryside....
Sen Monorom—the provincial capital—is about an eight hour bus ride from Phnom Penh. Several years ago, the road was nonexistent. However, the majority is delightfully smooth. It's a very off-the-path destination since it's so very far from Siem Riep, Sihanokville, and even Phnom Penh. There is also plenty of elephant riding, though this did not feature on my voyage out. In my four day trip to Mondlekiri Province, there were several delightful experiences I would strongly suggest replicating.
  1. Nature Lodge. I’ve never stayed at an eco-lodge before. It’s almost like camping. The food was good. The atmosphere was relaxed. And I got to sleep in a tree house with hot water
  2. Wearing sweaters. It’s the only time I’ve worn a sweater in over a year. It cools down. And it’s awesome.
  3. Driving motos. This will feature on my annual “best of 2011” list. There is nothing quite so fabulous and driving through rural roads enjoying this relatively prosperous rural province. We didn’t find many of the locations on the map, but can you top driving on red clay roads looking for waterfalls? Only with your moto can you explore and see for yourself the unique little places off the beaten path, like the "Tree Ocean."
  4. Waterfalls. The largest Cambodian waterfall is 30k outside of Sen Mororom. I regret not getting to that (I do need to go back anyway). However, there are plenty to see, and waterfall hunting is half the fun.You can also swim in most of them, since there really aren't any prohibitions. 
  5. A hilltop wat outside Sen Momorom
  6. Pine Trees. Enough said. Pine Trees on rolling hills, what more could anyone want?
I’ve been meaning to go back ever since I went. I will go back. The hint of New-Yorker in me craves hills, and shadows on pine trees. There are so many beautiful places and I feel that behind every hill is only more beauty and secret magical places to discover. So please, hold your breath, there will be a follow-up post.

PS...photo credit to my dearest Jon (because I'm the writer, not the photographer.)

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