Tuesday, July 15, 2008

How I spent Bastille Day

I wasn't at all disappointed when coming to France to discover I'd be here for Bastille Day. Bastille Day is French "independence day." All nations need a public celebration of national unity, the French one is about celebrating liberty from...hmm...

Bastille Day commemorates the beginning of the downfall of the Capetian dynasty and the end of an era. France's almost thousand year rule by elite aristocracy last chaired by Louis XVI and his glamorous Austrian born wife Marie Antoinette. The pent up rage of oppression hit the French population with the tipping point being the morning of July 14 1789. A mob of over 1000 people stormed the prison Bastille tearing it to the ground declaring they wanted a voice in government. Ironically Bastille was a prison for petty criminals, and the mob liberated the entire prison numbering 7 petty crime prisoners. After the storming of the Bastille, France was plunged into chaos not fully resolved until Napoleon set up a new chair in 1804. The bloody deluge did little to boost French PR abroad and it was years before they rejoined the playing field.

The site of the former Bastille is now a large roundabout in Paris; no prison, obviously. Today over 200 years later, the French democracy is fully secure and currently chaired by Nicolas Sarkozy.

Bastille Day contains certain traditions. The most well known is a military parade down the Champs Elysees, France's 5th Avenue ending at the Arc de Triomphe. The Army, Navy, Marines, Cavalry, National Guard, tanks and other military connected toys all march down shinny and decorated. The parade is led by Nicolas Sarkozy this time apparently with his visiting Syrian friend. At the end, there's a flashy flyover spraying clouds of red, white and blue in addition to showing off numerous fighter jets in formation. After the parade, you're allowed to climb over the tanks and equipment and take pictures at Napoleon’s tomb.

Bastille Day felt different from the 4th of July in the United States. It's not a "family holiday," picnics, cookouts, flags, family. There are few flags. No one dresses up in red, white and blue. In the words of a fellow student, "their flag don't mean so much to 'em like us Americans." In general, it felt like a Labor Day; a nice extra day off, nothing more. Many stores were still open and it felt like any other busy day in Paris.

Holidays are different everywhere you go. For me, it was worth it because now I can say I saw Nicolas Sarkozy. Carla Bruni Sarkozy wasn't there (promoting her new CD no doubt) so I must obviously return again one day.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I love Carla Bruni. I've been listening to her music for YEARS. It makes me laugh to think that she's the first lady now. Funny!! I have most of her songs memorized! En français, no doubt. :)