Wednesday, May 29, 2013

How to Visit Kampot

Kampot Cambodia
Pepper from Kampot is famous. I'm probably like many Americans. I did not grow up thinking pepper was a very exciting spice. Pepper from Kampot will change your mind. It's strong and pungent and flavorful. The only thing I did not do in Kampot was visit a pepper farm. This doesn't grieve me, but I should have done that.

Kampot produces pepper, but is otherwise a fairly sleepy little town and quiet province. It's on a beautiful peaceful river. It's near the famous Bokhor Mountain. It's close to the coast. It has "The Rusty Keyhole" with the best ribs in all of Cambodia. For many of my expat connections, Kampot is a favorite getaway spot and it does have that laid back former-French colony charm that makes for a relaxing long weekend. I can attest now, it's a wonderful long weekend trip.

My first (and presumably last) trip to Kampot was for my third and final organizational retreat. A four-day retreat in Kampot is a new way of organizing our retreats, but a trip to a new place is not something I will whinge about.

Some highlights/recommendations include the following:
  • Staying on the river. We stayed at a beautiful little guest house owned my a Frenchmen right on the river which flowed past us into Kampot town and into the ocean. It's a tidal river, so it was exciting seeing the currents change over time. In the late evening, the fishing boats chug down towards the ocean and early in the morning, they chug back inland with the most deafening sounds. You can swim in the river! I did, but still did not dare submerge my head.
  • Kayaking on the river. I have recently discovered the joys of the kayak. I do enjoy this exercise, especially on a beautiful river as calm as glass with ever shifting currents. I went with a colleague who loves birding. I have never experienced this activity, but found it surprising relaxing to paddle along the coast while she quested for birds. A new and rewarding experience.
  • Rusty Keyhole. I'm not a great meat lover, but these were the tastiest ribs I've ever consumed. They convinced a former and aspiring vegetarian to enjoy a giant piece of meat. I ate until I was sick, and then continued to eat. I will never, ever, ever do that again, but it was the right thing to do at the moment.
  • Modern dance. There is an organization in Kampot that teaches modern dance and sign language to deaf children and youth. They are the only group of this nature in Cambodia. One evening, we went for a performance. The most enjoyable part was watching the complete amazement on the faces of our national staff. It is unprecedented. 
  • Ocean time. We drove to the ocean one afternoon for swimming in a beautiful infinity pool at a high-end resort. The rain was threatening most the time and made beautiful sky formations. I walked out of their red boardwalk and admired the ocean and the world around me. Cambodia has beautiful pockets of nature. You forget this in the concrete chaos that is Phnom Penh. There are moments where you are overwhelmed with gratitude.

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